CLUSTER JEWELLERY SHOP

JOURNAL

THE EXHIBITORS

Recently a research study was commissioned by the Goldsmiths Company and the British Hallmarking Council to establish the scale of the challenge facing both manufacturers and  retailers in the precious metal industries from online marketplaces such as eBay and Amazon who list items for sale as “gold” jewellery. The research found that a “third of “gold” jewellery being sold online is suspected to be un hallmarked and therefore may be fake” Asides from issues around hallmarking, what other challenges can be found in the jewellery industry and what is your role in the BHC?

A British Hallmark is a stamp of quality that denotes that the article has been independently tested by an Assay Office and that it conforms to one of the legal standards of fineness or purity. It is illegal to sell anything made from a precious metal in the UK over a certain weight without a hallmark (this includes imports), and Hallmarking  is the oldest form of consumer protection in the UK . 

Online purchasing increases every year and it is imperative that online marketplaces provide consumers the same legal protection as bricks and mortar retail outlets do by ensuring items described as “gold” are Hallmarked. As online marketplaces and practices increase it is imperative that there is a level playing field and that the Hallmarking Act of 1973 is both enforced and upheld. 

I became a member of the British Hallmarking Council (BHC) in January 2020. The BHC  is a Non  Departmental Public Body, and works in partnership with the UK’s four Assay offices ( Edinburgh, Birmingham, London and Sheffield) to ensure that the Hallmarking Act of 1973 is enforced and consumers of precious metal goods are protected. There are currently 22 members of BHC who collectively provide the Council with their individual expertise in assaying, the precious metals industries and consumer protection. 

The UK jewellery/precious metals industries which employs 57,000 people in 6,700 businesses and generates annual revenues of £8.5bn, is currently facing the same challenges as all other businesses referred to as ‘“non essential”. It is vital that any business researches their market, gets to know their customers and nurtures them through their social media, marketing and public relations strategies. These strategies are just as crucial to forming, developing and maintaining  good relationships with their customers as the design and quality of their products.

With previous experience in innovation, new product development and application of 3D technologies within the jewellery sector; of these aspects, how have the recent advances in technology aided in the advances in jewellery? Are such developments required for progress in the industry? 

There has been a huge increase in the use of technology within most manufacturing industries over the past 3 decades and  the jewellery/crafts sector is no exception. Within jewellery manufacturing 3D computer aided design/computer aided manufacture (CAD/CAM) and laser technologies (e.g.welding, scanning) are not only embedded but are viewed as integral within a great many businesses. 

CAD/CAM has given companies and designers the facility to develop new products, create complex designs and offer product personalisation, coupled with the ability to produce cost effective prototypes in non precious metal, and enable interaction with clients and customers prior to tooling/manufacture. Many companies and CAD/CAM bureaus offer a CAD/CAM service to smaller companies. As with all technologies the ability to fully capitalise on the properties and benefits they offer depends on the users capability to gain the necessary competence and overcome integration issues.

With many projects you were involved in taking place internationally, would you say the jewellery sector requires international connectivity both on a company / artist level in sharing manufacturing techniques and ideas? 

In my opinion it is crucial that any business, regardless of size, needs to regularly research their products, processes and markets, be aware of the competition they face, and forge links and alliances whenever and wherever possible. Joining an established UK network such as the Association of Contemporary Jewellers, or Contemporary British Silversmiths offers many opportunities and support. Connectivity and networking, whether within the UK or Internationally increases opportunities for collaboration which can reduce the risks associated with innovative processes, may influence strategies for product design, and could lead to mutually beneficial long term relationships. 

During this period of Covid-19 with a lack of physical fairs to sell work, how might the market shift to online affect sales of work? There is a great joy in visiting fairs and seeing work up close. With a large shift to online platforms and digital shops, how can artists best prepare for this shift? 

The last four months have seen both established large companies crumble and  lesser known companies enjoy increasing success. Reports in the media have stated that the pandemic has forced businesses to re- examine their businesses, business model, offer/products and to rethink how they engage with their customers. Clearly an online platform is now essential, but that platform has to be easy to use, attract people to it, and be regularly updated and refreshed etc. The Crafts Council “Market for Craft” 2020 report evidences that makers are harnessing technology to promote their work and that now 68% of all makers have a website, with Master Craftspeople (84%) and Established Professional Makers (77%) the most likely to promote and sell their work through this channel. 

With organisations such as The Goldsmiths’ Company & Benchpeg providing fairs and online space to present work, what do you feel these organisations do well and what other platforms have you seen supporting the industry? 

The Goldsmiths Company is committed to supporting the craft and trade for the long term, as it has done for the last seven centuries. One of these areas of support has been the annual two week Goldsmiths Fair, held at Goldsmiths Hall in London for the past 38 years, which promotes  some of the most talented established and emerging craftspeople in the UK today. 130 fine jewellers and contemporary silversmiths will exhibit at this years online Fair from 24 September – 6 October 2020. This is only one of the many areas of support the Company offers to craftspeople in the precious metal industry/trade.

 Benchpeg is a weekly online publication written by jewellers, for jewellers, and brings together industry news, job opportunities and classified ads in one place. Recently their addition of a “ Covid resources” section has listed regularly updated information from funding opportunities, to links to appropriate Government advice and resources specific to jewellery.

Both Goldsmiths and Benchpeg are an invaluable sources of information, opportunities, support and promotion.Their success in presenting jewellery is founded on up to date knowledge, solid industry experience and  highly professional websites. 

British Craft Trade Fair (normally held in Harrogate in April ) has an online catalogue, BCTF Online, which connects buyers with makers 24/7. Every exhibitor has a page in their online catalogue which links through to their own website. Established over 45 years ago,BCTF also provides registered buyers/visitors to the fair with regular news and updates. 

It will be interesting to see if there is an increase in online selling platforms and if existing continue  to offer an online space to present work in the future.

What are your personal passions within the jewellery sector and what does the future hold for you? 

I always enjoy going to art, craft and jewellery exhibitions/fairs and talking to makers, companies, and exhibitors. I am constantly encouraged by the professionalism, inventiveness, creativity and imagination of people who are passionate about both their work and their industry. As for my future, during my time as a member of the British Hallmarking Council, I will continue to support the work of the UK Assay Offices in their execution of the 1973 Hallmarking Act to ensure continuing consumer and trade protection and confidence, and I’ll continue  to maintain my links with the precious metals industry, organisations and associations. Also (funds permitting), I’ll source and buy some amazing work!